leeks vinaigrette
an early spring classic
Welcome to mama eats, a twice-weekly newsletter inspired by a simple + seasonal home life. This week’s post, a recipe for leeks vinaigrette, is free to all readers, barring the video of me making it which is viewable by paid subscribers. I try to provide as much free content as possible, however, this newsletter is a labor of love and I am a busy mother of three. If you have the means and find value in what I share, please consider becoming a paid subscriber, which also gives you the benefit of access to the growing archive (posts over a month old).
Leeks are beautiful to look at- slender stalks, dark green fading gently into creamy white, ending in a little bunch of knobbly roots. They are mild with a gentle yet rich allium taste that makes them a friend to so many dishes. Leeks have been in cultivation since ancient times, with the Romans regarding them as superior to onions and garlic. They lend a depth of flavor that onions can’t, especially to soupy things- leek and potato of course, but also spring minestrone and risotto. They can even be sliced thinly and used raw in salads- especially good simply paired with orange slices and olive oil. They are a vegetable I always have in the fridge and garden through winter and especially in early spring, which is the perfect time for leeks vinaigrette. With asparagus and artichokes not quite here yet, leeks can be a wonderful vegetable side dish that brings some of that fresh, green, sweet flavor which makes spring vegetables so lovely- in French there’s a little nickname for them, asperges du pauvre, ‘poor man's asparagus’.
Leeks vinaigrette consists of boiled leeks, served in a vinaigrette- a very simple but excellent combination. The softness and sweetness of the leeks plays beautifully with the sharpness of the vinaigrette and the crunchy little pink pieces of shallots. The two together is more than the sum of the parts.
The vinaigrette recipe shared here is one I make all year round, and can be used on just about any kind of salad- the usual green leafy salad, a shredded veg salad (carrot, beet &c.), pasta salads, grain salads. Tweak it to your tastes and make it your classic vinaigrette.
leeks vinaigrette
notes: choose fresh looking, slender, smaller leeks for this recipe, which tend to be less fibrous and are better suited to serving in this manner. Possible pairings: as a side for a pea or lemon risotto, a simple pasta, or with a side of freshly cooked chickpeas and grilled toast. They also go marvellously well with french lentils- either on the side or chop up the leeks and mix them with the lentils. The amount of leeks to use is up to you- you can make as much or as little as you want. I’d reccomend 1 leek per person as a side, and 2 leeks per person as more main dish, with bread to mop up the extra vinaigrette.
some small to medium, slender leeks shallot vinaigrette, recipe below a small handful of parsley or chervil, finely chopped (optional) Wash leeks well. Trim roots just to the base of the leek, and cut off the dark green tops (should have only white and pale green left)- save dark tops for making broth or slicing very finely in soups. Peel off the first one or two layers- they tend to be a bit scraggly and tough. Cut down the middle lengthwise and wash well in between the layers, being careful not to detach the leaves from the base- we want it all one piece so it doesn't come apart during cooking. Bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil, reduce to simmering, then add leeks. Cook gently until leeks are tender but not mushy/sodden (a knife should pierce the thickest part easily), about 6-12 minutes, depending on the size of your leeks. Remove leeks from pot, lay on a clean kitchen towel to drain and blot up excess water, gently squeezing with the towel. Place on a serving platter and spoon over the vinaigrette, making sure they are coated well. Let stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes or up to a few hours to allow flavors to diffuse. Best warm or at room temperature.
shallot vinaigrette
notes: I always prefer a more vinegar forward ratio for my vinaigrettes, and the leeks need an assertive partner. If you find it too tart, add more olive oil until it is to your liking. My favorite dijon mustard is Maille; for a variation, try using whole grain mustard. Keeps well in the fridge for a week.
a small shallot, minced (approx. 1/4 cup) 3 tablespoons // 45 ml red or white wine vinegar a big pinch of sea salt ¼ cup // 60 ml olive oil, plus more as needed 2 teaspoons dijon mustard freshly ground black pepper a branch of thyme, leaves stripped off and chopped Add shallot, vinegar, and salt to a small jam jar or bowl. Allow to sit for a minute to let shallot macerate and mellow. Add remaining ingredients, shake or whisk well and taste. Adjust as needed.
I hope you enjoy this simple way with one of my favorite vegetables, it is a wonderful way to mark the transition of the seasons and to feel that spring is just around the corner. Leaving you with a small but evocative poem xx A
Buying Leeks
Buying leeks
and walking home
under the bare trees.
Yosa Buson (1716-1784 Osaka/Japan)
translated by Robert Hassfor more leeks, also see:
for paid subscribers, here is a little video of me making leeks vinaigrette. I hope it brings you some joy to watch or some visual cues for the recipe. I always find it comforting to watch others cook. x